Calvin Klein, alongside brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, remains one of the representative American labels that will always be recognized as a staple in fashion. The brand’s timeless style embodies what we now consider the minimalist aesthetic and the model-off-duty look. The 90s were considered the “golden era” for the brand; their iconic ads with Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg truly defined an era of boldness, sensuality, and empowerment. 

That era was all about lines with a focus on monochrome and neutral palettes, and body-conscious designs, creating ready-to-wear pieces for both men and women. During the 90s, Calvin Klein also casted some of the era’s top models for their shows—Stella Tennant, Carolyn Murphy, Kirsty Hume, and, of course, Kate Moss.

In the past decade, the luxury division of the brand, Calvin Klein Collection (renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC in 2017 under Raf Simons), had not staged a runway show since their Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear collection. This change came when Simons departed as Chief Creative Officer in December 2018. His vision for the 205W39NYC line was reportedly considered too luxe for Calvin Klein’s customers, who preferred the brand’s denim, underwear, and fragrance divisions, therefore, the runway shows were not part of this ideal. 

Fast forward to 2025, Calvin Klein made a grand return to the New York Fashion Week calendar with a new creative director. So, who is Veronica Leoni?

Veronica Leoni is an Italian fashion designer with an impressive CV working with fashion’s most influential minimalists, including Jil Sander, The Row, and CELINE. She was appointed the first female Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection in 2024.

“I really tried to connect with his original energy, and we really tried to explore a 24/7 wardrobe, to give it a cinematic and a real reality,” Veronica said at a preview, referring to Calvin Klein himself, who was present during the Fall 2025 Ready-to-wear show. 

The collection, named Monumental Minimalism, is a clear tribute to the origins of the brand. Featuring essential pieces that both women and men need in order to create a timeless wardrobe: A trench coat, a tailored black suit, a long coat, a leather bomber, and an Oxford shirt. As Leoni shared, she was inspired by the idea of “clothes for life, 24/7,”.

Monumental Minimalism stays true to Calvin Klein’s signature minimalist aesthetic with neutral tones and clean lines. Leoni’s vision merges structured tailoring with fluid draping, achieved by, for example, mixing sharp-shouldered wool coats contrasted with flowy dresses and wide-leg trousers.

And what is Calvin Klein without its Brand Ambassadors? Seated front row, we could find Bad Bunny, Simone Ashley, and Cooper Koch mingling with the brand’s legendary 90s muses Kate Moss and Christy Turlington Burns.

Taking over a brand with such a rich history can be a hard task, but Leoni has done an incredible job of capturing the essence of Calvin Klein while making it resonate with today’s audience.

By Ariadna Aragonès Cantero